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Q:
I
have a fireplace insert. The doors came with a fireproof
rope-type insulating seal. the rope is coming loose. What kind of
glue should I use.
A: You should use a gasket
cement made especially for this purpose. Rutland part number 77E
is one of the best.
Q: We have painted
our wood stove with some "stove paint" to make it look
nice again, and now when it gets above 200 degrees a terrible
chemical smell emanates from it. I have had about 8 fires in this
stove getting up to about 500 degrees, and the smell hasn't
ceased.
A: The paint will continue to
"cure" as you reach higher temperatures on your stove.
I recommend this. Clean your chimney before building larger fires
if it has not been done recently. Open windows (nice day I
hope!). Build hot fire. Cure the paint. The paint can go to a
temperature of 1200 degrees.
Q: During a new home
inspection, the inspector told me that fireplaces are not made to
handle the heat an insert produces and that it damages your
fireplace. Is this true?
A:
If
your fireplace is masonry (bricks), then your insert should work
in it just fine as is. If your fireplace is pre-fab (metal), then
your fireplace insert may not be safe. Look on the inside of the
firebox (usually on the side above the side brick and close to
the front) for the fireplace manufacturer and serial number. Then
call the manufacturer of the fireplace insert and see if it is
approved in your model of fireplace.
Q: I have a fireplace
insert in my fireplace. The problem is that even with the flue
closed, the insert still allows some drafts to come through in
various places, making the room cold. Any suggestions on how to
avoid these drafts?
A: To find the place(s) of
cold air infiltration. Build a fire and take a cigarette or similar smoke
producing object and hold it between fireplace insert and
surround and between the surround and fireplace profile. Be sure
to check under the stove. Seal all found leaks. Other problems
these leaks cause: Hard to start a fire, low heat output, fire
sometimes goes out, glass never stays clean.
Q: My question is:
What do I use to "seal all found leaks"? Is there a
preferred compound for this purpose?
A: Most leaks are small. If
holes, use fiberglass insulation (bat type, no paper backing). If
you have a gap running under the stove, fiberglass gasket
material like what is used to seal the doors is easier to work
with. Just continue until there is no smoke drawn in with the
unit in operation. This better seal will, make unit produce more
heat, make the glass stay cleaner, make the fire easier to start.
You will be pleasantly surprised at you results of sealing your
unit off. Note: RTV (high temp) silicone can also be used.
Q: I plan to have on
the first floor a small airtight wood stove and in the basement a
larger non-airtight unit in the same chimney. Is this possible?
A: Two chimneys would be
needed. They can run up the same brickwork, but must have two
different flues (holes).
Q:
I
want to install a wood stove as close to a wall as possible.
Where do I find information as to how I should modify the wall to
do this? And what sources of heat shield materials would you
recommend?
A: Check the installation
manual of the stove you wish to install. The minimum clearances
are different for each stove and depends on the safety testing.
You can usually lower the clearances usually by adding a stove board to
your wall.
Q: I have a prefab
fireplace in the living room. I want to remove it, open up an
alcove into the chase where it was and put in a freestanding wood
stove. Space will be tight but sufficient. What can I use to
"fireproof" the walls and ceiling of the chase? I do
not suspect heavy drywall is enough. Most brick would physically
be too bulky and esthetically would overwhelm the room.
A: You are correct, drywall
will not do. Look into Wonder Board by Durock. It is normally
used behind ceramic tile in bathrooms, but has UL approval for
use to reduce clearances behind wood stoves. Be sure to follow
the stove manufacturers instructions regarding alcoves. If not
open all the way to the ceiling, ventilation in the upper area
will probably be needed to keep the temperatures down. If the
stove manufacturer does not address alcoves, either pick another
or contact their technical support for addendum instructions. Do
not do this without proper precautions against a house fire.
Q:
Does
anyone know the specs on how far from the wall, etc. for
free-standing wood stoves?
A:
The
code for an unlisted wood stove is 36" to the sides and rear
of the stove. Almost every stove manufactured today has less
clearances, some down to 3". This would depend on the
testing lab results and is required to be on a metal plate
attached to the stove, usually on the rear. Your choice of stove will determine the clearances needed.
Q: On our first floor
is a large stone fireplace that has been sealed up, and a free
standing stove installed. The previous owner used this as his
primary heat source. Our problem relates to "draft
control". The chimney produces a very strong draft, and even
with the stove closed up as much as possible, we are unable to
regulate the fire. Any suggestions?
A: Check the gasket seal on
the doors. To do this, insert a dollar bill halfway in the door,
close the door, pull out the bill. There should be a fair amount
of resistance. Go around all sides (including the hinge side) of
the doors checking this, replace the gasket if the bill does not
have resistance.
Q: I'm looking at
putting a wood-burning insert in my fireplace, and my local code
requires a stainless liner. My problem is the damper plate
assembly between the fireplace and the flue. Is there a simple
way of removing this without having to demolish the whole
fireplace in the process?
A: IMO, this is not a good
do-it-yourself job. With that said, the top course or two of
brick need to be removed from the back wall of the firebox and
back side of the damper will need to be removed in order to make
room for the liner. The "trick" to it is an automotive
bumper jack. Remove the brick as needed using a chisel leaving
the damper above. Put jack under damper in rear center. As it is
cast iron, it will break rather than bend. Now repair any damage
caused by this process. Now the liner will have a hole to go
through. I close by stating that I think you should have a
certified chimney sweep do the installation.
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Last modified:
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