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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Updated: March 26, 2008
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Tips on searching this page: Use the find function on your browser. It is usually located under "Edit", then "find".
FAQ's are divided into the following categories:
Fireplaces - Cold Air Infiltration
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Q: Please give me the pros & cons for
AGA vented
logs. What is the BTU output and is a heat deflector needed to protect the mantel?
A: AGA Vented gas logs give you the look of a vented gas log
set. The output of this log set (and vented
sets) is determined by the fireplace it is installed in. The BTU inputs of
AGA Vented and all
out other products are listed on this page: http://www.FireLogs.com/BTUInputs.htm. A heat
deflector is not needed on AGA Vented Gas Logs.
Q: Do you suggest having a
carbon monoxide (CO) detector installed when using gas logs?
A: Yes, I believe that you should have a
carbon monoxide detector installed in every building that has a combustion
appliance. A combustion appliance is any appliance with a flame.
These include: gas furnace, gas hot water heater, wood fireplace, gas fireplace,
vented and vent free gas logs, gas stove, gas range, gas dryer, and most
importantly, if there is an adjoining garage with an automobile. Follow
the manufacturers instructions for mounting. I personally prefer the
digital readout CO detector by Nighthawk.
Q: I got my logs put
in. My question is how can I repaint the inside of the fireplace
to a desirable color? Do I have to use a special paint or will
the gas logs not make it hot enough to matter?
A: Please be
aware that with vent free gas logs (if you choose that route)
cannot have the firebox painted. The vent free logs heat the
paint higher than the 1200 degree F. limit. This will make the
paint carry through the house with the air currents and deposit
the paint residue on everything. Vented gas logs do not have this
problem due to the lower temperatures and the exhaust gases going
to the atmosphere.
Q: I would like to be
able to use gas logs for decoration as well as a source for heat,
and it seems that the unvented type would work the best although
I am concerned about the claim that the fire isn't as
realistic.... if I opened the damper slightly would the fire
become more realistic dependent upon how far I opened the vent or
is it a design difference between the vented and un vented logs
themselves?
A: The fire on the Peterson pages are accurate as to what to
expect from both vented and vent free. Damper position would
not help flame pattern, that is the limitations on burner and
cleanliness required by the product safety listing. Opening the damper will lower the
heat output for those days when full heat is not wanted.
Q: I have a center
chimney with three working fireplaces....could I still burn wood
in the kitchen fireplace either while the gas logs were burning
or not?
A: Gas and
wood cannot be mixed in the same flue. But can be in the same
chimney. Unless chimney is over 75 years old or not built to
code, you will not have a problem. If you have one hole coming
out the top of your chimney for all three fireplaces, then you
have a problem, if you have three (which I suspect), then you
have no problem, if unsure, call a certified chimney sweep to do
an inspection.
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Q:
Can
you please tell me the best place to put my CO detector? I have a
two-story house, bedrooms on the second floor, gas furnace, water
heater and dryer in the basement, gas range on the first floor,
and will soon have gas logs on the first floor as well. Right now
the CO detector is next to my bed, sort of by default.
A: In my
opinion, it should be a digital readout Nighthawk placed at eye
level. CO has a .97 specific gravity so it mixes floor to ceiling
well with air currents, but I feel you will look at it more at
eye level. As far as placement in the house. I recommend one on
each level. Read owners manual as far as what not to place it
close to, like the furnace.
Q: Can someone tell
me what types of heat gives off carbon monoxide? Gas &- oil. - yes, electric no, wood??? Thanks
A: Carbon
monoxide is given off when incomplete combustion takes place.
Combustion appliances (or vehicles) can be fueled by: gasoline,
diesel fuel, kerosene, LP gas also known as propane, natural gas,
oil, wood, alcohol, and the like. If there is a flame present,
carbon monoxide is possible if combustion is not complete.
Q:
I
recently moved into a house that appears to have vented gas logs.
The fireplace has a chimney so I assume the gas logs are vented.
1. Is there a way to be sure of what I have? 2. If my current gas
log set is vented could I replace the vented gas logs with vent
free gas logs? If so, do I need to do anything special?
A: Vent free
gas logs will have tags or metal plates attached to them for
identification. If your gas log set does not have tags, it is
probably a vented set. If you wanted to swap to vent free, you
would remove your old vented set and replace it with a vent free
burner and logs for that burner. There are no parts that would
swap from the vented to the vent free set.
Q: What sized gas
line should I run for gas logs?
A:
The
size of the gas line varies by the BTUs needed for the gas log
set and the distance of the gas line run. It also varies by fuel,
propane verses natural. Follow this link for a chart of gas ling
sizes: http://www.FireLogs.com/gasline.htm.
Q: What are the
specific functional differences between vented and non-vented
sets ?
A:
Vented have a better looking flame and
consumes more gas (90,000+- BTUH) vent-free heats approximately 800
square feet and consume up to 40,000 BTUH. But the flame does not look
as good. Great looks and low heat or good looks and great heat,
that is the question!
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: I have a wood
fireplace and want to buy gas logs, I was told that the gas line
has to down the chimney through the damper to the logs. I was
wondering if is this a proper way to do it?
A:
No it
is not right. Never run the gas line into a high heat area. Go
find another installer that can run the gas line out at the floor
of the fireplace where is should be. Be sure to get a building
permit if required and have it inspected. Follow all
manufacturers instructions.
Q: Can we run the gas
line to our fireplace and install gas logs ourselves, or do we
need a professional to do that?
A: Even
though detailed instructions come with the log set, it is our policy to only
recommend professional installation.
Q: I have gas logs and was told to keep the
glass doors open while the thing was on.....is that right?
A: Yes, your glass doors must stay open while the gas
logs are burning. You can close them immediately after turning
them off.
Q: I have a Peterson gas log set. There are
small hairline cracks in a log. I was wondering if this is a
problem? Do we need to watch it for the cracks getting bigger.
The man that installed the logs told us how to temper the set on
a low heat.
A: The cracks do not pose a problem. However, your logs
are warranted for life. Peterson is a great company, they don't
want you to have broken logs in your fireplace.
Q: Should I open the damper when the gas logs
are used ?
A: If vented, the fireplace damper must stay fully open
when in use. This is the same position used with a wood fire.
Vent free gas logs on the other hand are different. The damper
can be fully closed letting all the heat into the room. The
damper can also be used to regulate the amount of heat produced
into the room. In other words you can open the damper to let some
or most of the heat go up the chimney when you want to use it as
a decorative log set.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: I have a wood stove. Can I install gas logs
in this unit if the firebox of the stove meet the minimum
requirements of the gas log installation requirements.
A:
No. Gas logs can only be used in open
front fireplaces. To put one in a closed combustion wood stove
would be an explosion hazard. The flames could go out due to lack
of air. When door is opened to see what is wrong - air goes in to
ignite the raw gas. There goes the house and maybe the neighbors.
Serious matter. Do not do it.
Q: I have a gas log set in a fireplace
originally built for wood. The fire goes out. It burns fine for
less than one hour. Why does the fire go out? The pilot light
also goes out. Should I use a grate to hold the logs? Should I
use lava rock (the product sold for grills)?
A: If the fire goes out within 10 minutes, then the
thermocouple is cooling off too much when the logs are started.
The solution is to increase the pilot flame adjustment. If it
will not adjust higher, replace the thermocouple. If too small a
gas line is installed, it will also cause this and would have to
be increased to solve your problem. If the log set burns more
then 20 minutes and then goes out, it is from overheating. Is
there 3" between the valve and the side of the firebox? Is
the shield on the gas valve? The thermocouple could be placed
wrong thereby heating the cold junction on the thermocouple. You
should use the grate that came with the log set. You should use
only accessories for the log set, nothing for a grill.
Q: Is it possible to burn BOTH wood and gas in
a "standard" fireplace insert or is that a No, No ?
A: It is a No, No!!! Let me explain. A wood stove is a
controlled combustion product. This means air is restricted to
increase burn time. This cannot be done on a gas appliance, a air
starved gas appliance does not burn properly. It is possible to
starve the appliance of air to the point combustion that the fire
goes out. Then when the door is opened to check it, air rushes
in, kaboom. It is an explosion hazard and should not be
attempted.
Q:
We don't have natural
gas out where I live, so everything's electric. Everything stays
warm, though, and I only use the fireplace for ambience and maybe
some light-duty toe warming. Firewood is a mess, though. It soots
up everything (the fireplace hearth and surround are snow white
imitation marble), and is a pain to clean up. Since the fireplace
backs up to the garage, I'm wondering if I could switch to
artificial gas logs and run a line through the wall to a BBQ-type
propane tank in the garage. Just a standard 20 pound tank. Would
this work, or is it a stupid idea?
A: First, a smoking fireplace with wood is still a
smoking fireplace with gas logs, it will not cure your problem.
Second, Propane cylinders are not allowed indoors, even a garage. Third, is set
of gas logs consuming 90,000 BTU per hour of gas would burn on
the gas grill cylinder for only 4.8 hours. See this FAQ on
smoking fireplaces. Let's get your fireplace to stop smoking,
then choose which fuel you want to burn in your fireplace.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: I've had unvented gas
logs for about five years. Same room, same fireplace. I re-lit the pilot light
this fall. It burned fine. The next day we noticed the pilot light was off. I
shut them off, the pilot light stayed on. For a few minutes. What
can be causing this?
A: The pilot on a
vent free is part of the ODS assembly. Yours is just dirty. Take a
can of compressed air and blow the dust out. The pilot must be OFF.
The ODS is where the pilot flame comes out. Go to the back of the ODS, you
will see one or two holes, blow the compressed air in there. Then blow
down the barrel of the ODS.
Q: What building code groups
permit the installation of listed vent free gas products?
A: National Fire Protection Association
(NFPA-54), Building Officials and Code Administrators (BOCA), Southern Building
Code Congress International (SBCCI), Council of American Building Officials
(CABO), Both the International Mechanical Code (IMC) and International Fuel Gas
Code (IFGC) permit the installation of listed and labeled vent free gas products
and specify that the product be used as a supplemental heating source. Answer
provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Q: How does vent free gas logs
affect indoor air quality?
A: Safe Indoor Air Quality. Extensive
independent testing has verified that vent free gas appliances meet or exceed
the nationally recognized guidelines for indoor air quality, even for the
sensitive populations, such as children, pregnant women, and the elderly.
Vent free products are tested by independent appliance testing laboratories to
assure they comply with ANSI Z21.11.2, a standard established under the auspices
of the American National Standards Institute. This standard is maintained
by a committee whose members include utilities, manufacturers, government
agencies, code officials, and consultants. The committee has removed from
the standard all language concerning sensitive populations because of vent free
products' excellent health and safety record over the past twenty years.
Answer provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Assertion: There are
concerns about Carbon Monoxide (CO) emissions from vent-free appliances,
especially in households with children, pregnant women, and elderly people.
Fact: The effects of vent-free products'
emissions on sensitive populations were tested in the extensive independent
study. This research used as its criteria the recommended maximum levels
of CO as set by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), with sensitive
populations - such as children, pregnant women and the elderly - as the
benchmark. The results of the research proved that vent-free gas heating
products preformed well within the CPSC guidelines for Carbon Monoxide and all
other indoor air quality guidelines by OHSA, NIOSH and ASHRAE. Fact
provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Assertion: There is
nothing to prevent a thrifty homeowner from using a vent-free gas heater as a
sold heat source.
Fact: Surprisingly, there are homeowners who
improperly use even their cooking ranges as a sole heat source. The fact
is, consumers must be informed on how to use any new gas appliance in the
home. All major building codes categorize vent-free products for
supplemental use and require that a primary source of heat (e.g., a furnace) be
present in the home before a vent-free product can be installed. It is
clearly stated in the operating instructions of every vent-free appliance that
vent-free gas products are only to be used for supplemental heating. Fact
provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Assertion: If a customer buys a
vent-free gas appliance, it is necessary to purchase a quality Carbon Monoxide
detector as well.
Fact: All homes, whether their energy source
is electric, gas, wood, or oil, should have a listed Carbon Monoxide (CO)
detector. Primary sources of CO concern are automobiles, indoor grilling
on hibachis, and gas appliances that have not been properly maintained.
The independent research study on vent-free products concluded after extensive
testing that CO emissions from vent-free gas products are well within nationally
recognized indoor air quality guidelines, even for sensitive populations.
Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Assertion: Ceiling fans should
not be installed in rooms with vent-free fireplaces.
Fact: Ceiling fans may be used to help
distribute heat, however, fans should not be allowed to blow directly into the
fireplace to avoid drafts that alter burner flame patterns, which can result in
sooting. Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Q: Do vent free gas appliances
produce water?
A: Some people may be surprised to learn
that vent-free appliances produce water. This occurs naturally by burning
a combination of gas and air. The water is in the form of a vapor rather
than a liquid. You can't see it with your eyes. During cold months
of the year, the relative humidity - the percentage of water vapor in the air -
is low. You've probably experienced a scratchy throat caused by the
dryness inside a home during the winter. Health studies have shown that
increasing the indoor relative humidity results in a reduction of respiratory
illnesses. AHAM, the trade association for the humidifier industry,
recommends a 60% indoor relative humidity. Answer provided by the
Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Note: To obtain a copy of the referenced brochure, contact the Vent-Free Gas Products Alliance at mscsmitty@cs.com and ask for "Ten Million Reasons To Build In Vent-Free Gas Products - Builder and Remodeler Guide to Vent-Free Supplementary Gas Heating Appliances - 2002.
Q:
We
would like to purchase a set of non-vented firelogs to use with
our Heatilator fireplace insert. What we need to know is: a. Can
the non-vented firelogs be used with a Heatilator insert? We have
gotten conflicting information on whether this is safe to do or
not.
A:
The
question is due to the terminology. A "Heatilator" is a
masonry fireplace form with an open front. An "insert"
is a wood burning stove inserted into a fireplace. It has air
tight doors and could pose an explosion hazard if gas logs were
used. If you have an open front fireplace, capable of burning
wood, you can use vented gas logs. The Heatilator company does not allow vent
free gas logs in their prefab fireplaces.
Q: We are on a
Propane fuel system. What brands and models of gas logs would you
recommend?
A: All of
mine are fine for propane. Be sure to specify when ordering so
the right gas valve and burner will be ordered. You must use the
safety pilot option on propane (LP) gas.
Q:
If
I buy a vent-free set of gas logs in the ceramic fiber material,
can I add some fiber looking embers and pinecones, etc. at my
discretion. Or if I have an old set can I place an old log just
on the hearth floor for added realism?
A: You
cannot alter or add to the log set in any way. To do so could
cause carbon monoxide. These type of materials can be used around
the outside of the log set for decoration, but not on the set.
Q:
Are
the unvented gas fireplaces safe? We are planning a new home and
they certainly look attractive but I just feel very uncomfortable
not venting combustion products. Besides the safety factor, I
would appreciate other comments on how well they work, etc. I
really want a wood stove (we had one 20 years ago) but my wife
doesn't like the mess. I have to admit that the convenience of
gas (over wood) sure makes them look attractive.
A: All of
the vent free fireplaces meet AGA (American Gas Association)
approval. There are several factors involved. Vent free gas log
put out a lot of heat. This may mean you cannot run your logs for
long periods due to the heat output. A vented fireplace with vent
free gas logs makes more sense to me. Then, your future options
are endless. You could change to wood (you said you like a real
fire), you may want to go with the very realistic vented gas
logs. If roof venting is not possible, take a look at direct
vent units. The flue gasses go out the back through a horizontal
flue, the combustion air is pulled around this pipe. This makes
the unit sealed from the outdoors. It works very well in tight
houses and is approved in bedrooms in many areas.
Q: If one uses a
vent-free gas log in a fireplace during a power outage in the
winter with the chimney flue closed as recommended, what protects
the household from CO buildup and poisoning?
A:
The
ODS (Oxygen Depletion Devise) does not require power to operate.
It will shut off the gas to the appliance when the oxygen in the
room drops from 20.9% to 18%. This is a long ways from
harmful levels of CO.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: Why are vent free
gas logs not allowed in a bedroom? Why? I thought they were
"safe" to use anywhere.
A: We now have a unit that can be installed
in a bedroom. Click here: http://www.FireLogs.com/PetersonVentFreeGasLogs.htm
and look at the G8 series.
The new AGA (American Gas Association) standard allows for a few approved vent
free units to be placed in bedrooms. They must produce less than 10,000
BTUs. Check your local building code.
Q: I am interested in gas logs for my
fireplace, and think I would like the vent free kind to prevent
heat loss up the chimney. I don't understand how they can be
unvented and not present a carbon monoxide problem. Can you clear
this up for me?
A: Vent free gas appliances have an ODS (oxygen
depletion sensor). If the oxygen level drops to a 18% level
(from a normal of 20.9%), the set shuts down. The vent free gas
logs use the same technology as the vent free wall space heaters
that have been around for several years. Do they produce CO
(Carbon Monoxide)? The answer is yes, they produce trace amounts.
Ours sets produce about 9.5 PPM (parts per million). the AGA code
for vent free gas heaters and logs is 20PPM. A gas range is
400PPM. And a cigarette is 800PPM. So yes they do, but not a
harmful level. Note on safety, there has never been a fatality
with a gas appliance due to a faulty ODS and there are more than 10 million
operating in the United States and more than 50 million
in use world wide.
Q: I have heard that vent free gas logs
produce water. Is this true?
A: Vent free gas logs produce one quart of water per
hour on high. You can crack the damper to let it out the chimney.
Most houses like the additional water, but it can become a
problem in very well insulated houses. A de-humidifier will take
care of it (needed less than 1% of the time).
Q: I have heard that a hood must me used on
vent free gas logs. Can you elaborate on the requirements of this
hood, like how big and where to put it?
A: The hood is used if the mantle is too close and
could overheat. Most of the time it is needed if the mantle is
closer than 28" to the firebox opening. It also matters how
far out the mantle extends. The less it extends the closer to the
firebox opening it can be. The hood is about 4" wide and is
available in black or polished brass. The hood goes at the top of
the firebox opening. Look here for vent free
hoods.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: I have odors coming from our vent free gas
logs. Each time we've noticed the odor, it has been while paint
has been being applied to the wall. All we can figure is that the
vapors from this stuff interact in some way with the gas
generated fire and that reaction causes a pretty stinky odor. Any
of that sound reasonable?
A: You are correct. The flame processes all impurities
in the air. Other items that smell when
processed: pet hair, carpet fiber, extreme dust, paint, soot
inside firebox, etc.
Q: Is there any maintenance on vent
free gas
logs that needs to be done on a regular basis?
A: Maintenance for the most part can be done yourself.
Just good housekeeping! Take the logs off the burner. Take a
brush (1-2" paint brush with all but 1/2" of the
bristles taped up works good) and clean the burner ports. Clean
the air intake. Clean everywhere that there is dust, pet hair,
carpet fuzz, etc. There should be no soot on the burner at all.
Make sure that nothing has changed with the set. Like extra logs
or pine cones, or the logs positioned wrong. The pilot on a
vent free is part of the ODS assembly. It gets dirty over time. Take a
can of compressed air and blow the dust out. The pilot must be OFF.
The ODS is where the pilot flame comes out. Go to the back of the ODS, you
will see one or two holes, blow the compressed air in there. Then blow
down the barrel of the ODS. Read over the
installation instructions again and be sure everything is
correct. Or call a gas fitter to perform the maintenance and
perform a CO test.
Q: Are vent free gas logs legal in all states?
A: They are not legal in all states. California does not allow them at all. Other states have different
restrictions. Some states do not allow them in commercial
buildings. Nationwide they are not allowed in recreational vehicles. Check with
your local building code official, ask him what restrictions, if
any, are placed on "vent free gas space heaters". Your
answer will be the same whether you are installing : a vent free
wall hung gas space heater, a vent free gas stove, or vent free
gas logs.
Q: I just bought an old house and the
fireplace hadn't been used in years. I called a chimney sweep
(who's also a firefighter) to clean it for me. He said there was
no point because it's an old "Shaker coal firebox" and
the chimney's all full of junk (bird's nests and stuff). So, I
said, "OK, I'll just put in a vent-free decorative gas log
set." He said, "Don't do that. It must be vented."
I said, "V-e-n-t-f-r-e-e. That means, no venting
needed." He said, "I wouldn't do that." I don't
want to kill my family, but I he couldn't explain what the
concern is. I've read all about ODS sensors and stuff. Is there
anything to worry about if I just seal off the fireplace and put
the vent-free unit in? Oh, also, the firefighter was very
concerned about the distance from the firebox to the mantle. It
is very short, say 6-10 inches. Is that a problem? Would a
fireplace hood be appropriate?
A: I sounds as if your chimney sweep was not certified.
He does not appear trained in servicing fireplaces. "Birds
nests and stuff" - The chimney swifts nest is so small it
can fit in the palm of your hand. They pose no fire hazard.
"Stuff", I can only guess! Gas logs, both vented and
vent-free require a working wood burning fireplace. The mantle
could be a problem, even with a hood. If your fireplace is unsafe
for a wood fire, it is unsafe for a gas fire. Call a certified
sweep and let someone qualified and trained inspect your
fireplace.
Q:
Now, explain to me why
on earth you'd need a working fireplace with a vent free system?
Do you see the obvious confusion I have? You guys even sell
mantles that you just push against the wall and then put the logs
in there. I mean, maybe my dumbness is caused by not understanding
what "working" means. Is the fake fireplace setup
called a "working fireplace"?
A: It is confusing. The problem is the building codes
and the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association). There is no
code for a fireplace without a chimney. Therefore the vent-free
gas logs must be put into a vented fireplace, but you can close
the damper. No one is willing to go out on a limb and say that
2", 4", or even 20" of masonry over the top of the
fireplace is safe. How long would a fire have to be going before
heat would transmit, a day, week, month, etc. The AGA (American
Gas Association) and building codes allow a tested and approved
pre-fab firebox to be used, hence the box that can slide back
into a wood wall.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q: I was considering a gas log for one of my
fireplaces and noticed that they have vent-free models. How well
do these work? To me initially, they seemed kind of dangerous,
but then I thought that gas stoves and ovens work without a vent.
Is there a moisture problem? How is the look compared to a vented
model? Is the amount of heat given off really that great? Can you run the ventless with the flue open at all? Maybe to take
some of the spent air out?
A: Vent free gas logs put out a tremendous amount of
heat, up to 40,000 BTUs into the room. The safety factor has been
addressed by adding an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Device), all sets on
the market have AGA (American Gas Association) approvals.
Moisture can be a problem if you already have a moisture problem.
If you currently have moisture on the inside of you windows, then
you may need a de-humidifier. Vent Free gas logs put out up to
one quart of water per hour. The average house has 5 gallons of
water in the air at all times. Looks, a vented gas log looks much
better, but does not have the heating capability. There is a
trade off to looks verses heat. Heating - yes it is that great
with vent free. 40,000 BTUs is a lot of heat. Yes, we do
recommend opening the damper when you want to see the fire and
not have all the heat. The damper can be left open just a little
and your get most of the heat into the room and let most of the
moisture out of the house. Then, when it is very cold or in a
power outage, close the damper entirely for maximum heat.
Q: I need to find several sets of logs that
will fit in the fireplaces in my house. The house is 106 years
old and three of the fireplaces are the old coal burning ones
that are approximately 12 inches wide and 5 inches deep.
I am looking for unvented gas logs. I am looking for
something to give a little extra heat. The chimneys are not
really usable that is why I want unvented logs.
A: The shallowest vent free I
know of is Peterson's G8 at 9 1/2". Both vented and vent free gas
logs require a working wood burning fireplace. Your fireplace
would have to be brought up to working condition for use with
either style of gas logs.
Click here for the FireLogs home page
Q:
Do
vented gas logs throw enough heat to heat a room 15X15? Does
anyone know if the vented gas logs produce any more heat than a
DuraFlame log?
A:
Vented
gas logs are tested to the American Gas Association Decorative
Gas Standard. This means that no heat outputs may be used in
advertising or brochures. Basically, vented gas logs produce the
same amount of heat as the same fireplace does with a wood fire.
If your fireplace normally produces a lot of heat, you will be
pleased with the heat of gas logs. If, on the other hand, you
fireplace puts out no heat with wood, you will also get no heat
from gas logs. You should purchase vented gas logs as a
decorative appliance. While they work well in an emergency
situations, they are not an economical way of zone heating.
Q: I had gas logs
installed in my fireplace about 5 years ago. Is it necessary to
have the fireplace cleaned when you have gas logs. Do they create
Creosote, or some other buildup that should be cleaned out every
so often.
A: Your fireplace should have
been cleaned when the gas logs were installed. Gas does not
produce creosote. We do not know about real long term soot
buildup with gas logs. But our retail stores shows no appreciable
buildup with daily use after 18 years.
Q: How much gas do vented gas logs use?
A: The gas usage varies by set size.
A 24" vented set on natural gas consumes 90,000 BTUs. Look here for
the BTU inputs of all our products: http://www.FireLogs.com/BTUInputs.htm
Q: Can vented logs be used for emergency heat?
A: Yes, they are a good source of emergency heat. It is
not economical to try to use them for zone heating. However, in
an emergency situation, the cost per hour is not as important.
Q: Is the Safety Pilot Kit (SPK) worth
purchasing?
A: A safety pilot has a standing pilot. It is lit all
the time. You do not need to match light. If the valve is turned
on, it automatically lights the log set. You can not turn the valve on and
let raw gas into the room. If you go with a manual valve. You
turn on the valve and strike a match to light, like a gas grill. It is possible for
the valve to be turned on without igniting the log set causing
raw gas to come into the house. Many areas require a safety pilot on
natural gas. It is required on propane gas nationwide.
Q: I've just purchased a 1904 home with 7 coal
burning fireplaces. Is it possible to convert these to gas logs?
From what I understand, wood is out of the question as the
firebox is too small. All of the fireplaces are very decorative,
and I wouldn't want to do any damage in the conversion.
A: If your fireplaces are safe to burn wood or coal,
then gas logs can be added if you have the required depth.
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Q: Does anyone have any experience with
freestanding gas stoves that look similar to wood or pellet
stoves? I have an old wood stove I am not using. It is old and I
have been told it is not safe anymore. I do not want to put
another wood stove in as my wife has no experience with a wood
stove or fireplace and I don't feel comfortable with a wood
stove. I would like to put in a freestanding natural gas stove in
its place. Do they work well?
A: Yes. But some are tested to the "Decorative Heater Standard". These
cannot show a heat output in advertising or written paperwork. Stay away from
these unless decoration is what you are looking for. Others are tested to the
"Gas Heater Standard" and show BTU input and output. Use the output figure to
compare appliances.
Q: Are there any surprises in installing or
running these stoves?
A: It is straight forward. But in my opinion, it is
not a do it yourself project. Gas lines should be installed only
by a licensed gas contractor.
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Q:
I just moved into a
new house which has a fireplace. I decided for the my first real
fire I would simply purchase a DuraFlame log. It was simple to
light up and the fire lasted about 2.5 hours. Now my question -
what are some of the pros and cons of using these type of
"logs"?
A:
Some prefab fireplace manufacturers do not allow
this type of log to be burned in their fireplace. Their concerns
are: (1) The waxes that hold the logs together could run into the
bottom (low heat area) of the fireplace and ignite, possibly
causing a house fire. (2) If they are touched during burning,
they turn into sawdust, creating a lot more heat than the
fireplace was designed to take. (3) that someone will use more
than one log. I recommend using them only in 3" sections to
start a real log fire.
Q:
Having
gone through one week without heat, I now want to get a backup
heating source. I want to get either a gas stove or fireplace. I
prefer the looks of the fireplace but I don't know if there is
one that would give enough heat in a power outage. Anyone have a gas
fireplace that gives good heat without power? Also I am not sure
of the difference between Direct Vent and Vent Free. Are there
any advantages to either one?
A:
Direct
vent uses a horizontal pipe through the wall. It is actually two
pipes (one inside the other), the flue gasses go out the inside
and combustion air goes through the outer pipe. Vent free is
exactly what it says, no vent. Advantage of direct vent: better
looking flame. Glass doors standard. Disadvantage: having to put
hole through wall. 70% +- efficient. Advantage of vent free: more
heat. 99.9% efficient. No hole to cut in wall. Disadvantage: small
amount of combustion odor, water is produced (can be advantage in
dry area or disadvantage if already have moisture problems).
Flame not as good looking.
Q:
I
have a prefab fireplace in my house and I'm trying to get a wood
stove insert installed. But the fireplace seems really small, and
even the smallest of the inserts might not fit, plus there is a
warning in the prefab fireplace instructions saying "Do not
install a fireplace insert in the Zero Clearance Fireplace"
Is there any real reason that a wood insert can't be installed in
this fireplace, or is this warning just legal mumbo jumbo to keep
some lawyer in a job? One installer guy suggested taking a
saws-all to the zero-clearance firebox (its just heavy-duty sheet
metal after all) to make for easier installation of the wood
stove.
A: The manufacturer said not
to do it. The bottom of the firebox will not hold the weight of
the stove. The chimney is designed to run cool for fire safety
and a lot of air delusion going into the firebox. Glass doors,
other than those designed by the manufacturer are not even
allowed. A wood stove in a cool chimney produces a lot of
creosote causing chimney fires. The UL testing temperature for
the chimney is 1700 degrees F. and a wood stove is tested to 2100
degrees F. This is something that should not be done. If you want
a wood stove, put in a wood stove, but not in the fireplace. I
have seen over five house fires due to cutting of prefab
fireboxes. This is how they cool. Cut off you cooling, you might
as well be building a fire on your floor. You are on dangerous
ground here. Please do not do it.
Q: I have been told
that some brick needed re-pointing. But as I have no experience
with masonry, at this point I am wondering what re-pointing is?
A: Re-pointing,
or tuck-pointing is the process of digging out old sandy or
deteriorating mortar. Cleaning the void left. Then replacing with
new mortar. The tool of choice to re-point looks a lot like a
cake decorating bag. It is a funnel shaped bag that the mortar is
put in, as the bag is squeezed, the mortar comes out the small
end and into the open mortar joint.
Q: I am trying to
solve an intense odor problem with our fireplace when it is not
in use. I assume this is caused by a back draft of cold air
entering the house, but have not yet found a solution. The
fireplace works fine while having a fire, but creates a very
strong odor throughout the house after it cools down. We have had
the chimney professionally cleaned. The damper would not close
properly (it left about a two inch gap), so the sweep installed a
top mounted damper. I have tried chimney deodorizers, but they
don't seem to help much. Placing an electric hepa type air
cleaner in the fireplace, and running it with the glass doors
shut, pretty much eliminates the problem, but is not very
visually pleasing.
A: Your problem is water. It
is behind the back wall of the fireplace. The problem should be
corrected as long as damper is closed when raining. This is what
to do. You will get dirty, prepare for it. Reach through the
damper and to the back. Now reach down 12" to 18". You
are going to think you need another joint between your wrist and
elbow, but it will fit! You should feel moist ashes and maybe
even water. Now get a shop vac in there with your arm and vacuum
everything out. The best position to get arm in is with you
sideways in firebox, looking at side wall, and you completely
inside firebox so your head is next to damper. A side note, your
chimney sweep should have done this as part of his cleaning. Put
heater back in chimney for a little while to take care of any let
over moisture and remember to close the top sealing damper when
finished and after every fire.
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Q:
I
am curious if there is anyway to stop an odor problem from my
fireplace. I started burning wood in my fireplace and the odor in
the house the days following is quite strong. I assume part of
the problem is that the house has a forced hot air heating system
so it needs to draw air from within the house. This seems to
create a downdraft through the fireplace even though the damper
is closed. I have glass doors but they do not seal. Is there
anything that I can do to reduce/eliminate the problem.
A: A top sealing fireplace
damper would help. But, if your HVAC system needs air, it will
get it. After you "fix" the fireplace, the downdraft
could come down the hot water heater chimney causing carbon
monoxide poisoning. In my opinion, your answer is in a
"balanced system". Contact a HVAC person about adding
outside make up air to your furnace. Just 10% outside air will
slightly pressurize the dwelling. This will make the fireplace
work properly. Air also would not be trying to come in around
windows and doors. Depending on the size of
your city, it may even be a category in your yellow pages. I am
making the assumption that your fireplace is not marginally
smoking, thereby creating the smell.
Q:
This
sounds familiar, I have the same problem. It seems that it
happens after a rainfall, and then seems to go away. If I don't
light another fire, the smell is gone. It seems like some kind of
residue builds up in the chimney, and the rain
"activates" it. Apparently, the down draft (cold air
sinking) brings the smell into the house. The damper isn't
exactly an airtight seal - though I wish it were. I have a cap on
the chimney, so water doesn't come in straight down, though I'm
sure some blows in from the side screens.
A: A top sealing fireplace
damper would keep all the water out and it does have a gasket
seal. They are easy to install and relatively inexpensive. They
are not a "cure all" for smells though. You can go see
this product on my web site:
http://www.FireLogs.com/Lyemance.htm.
Q:
Is
mortar repair in a fireplace a DIY project? The back corner seams
of the firebox have a separation of about 1/8". I'd like to
chisel away at the old mortar to clean it up then apply a new
bead of appropriately rated fireplace mortar material.
A:
It is
easy. Rutland makes a fireplace mortar in a caulking tube. The
part numbers are 63 (black), 63B (Buff), 63G (gray). Just wet the
area with a spray bottle with water in it, this is to improve
adhesion by reducing dust. First fire should be small to cure the
new mortar. It withstands 3,000 degrees F. If you can not find
this product locally, let me know and I'll sell it to you.
Q:
I
am interested in getting more heat out of a fireplace. Mine is a
wood burner, without glass doors. I have been trying to find a
grate that is made out of hollow tubes, but I haven't been able
to. (They look like the letter U on it's side). Are they still
made?
A: I know what you are
referring to but have not seen one in years. Glass doors will
help due to stopping the heat loss when you do not have a fire.
It will slow down the air going out of the house when you do have
a fire. However, the fireplace will feel like it does not put out
as much heat (right up next to it) because of the glass slowing
down the radiant heat of the fire. If you are wanting serious
heat from your fireplace and want to stay with wood, look at a
wood burning fireplace insert. If you are willing to change to
gas, a vent free gas log set will allow you to close your damper
and get up to 40,000 BTU's of heat out into the room.
Q: How tall should my
chimney be above the roof?
A:
Two feet above any point within ten feet, with a three foot minimum,
penetration. To find out how tall it
should be. Take a level and measure the roof pitch. It is the
amount the roof drops per foot. Example. A 2' level shows a drop
of 10". Divide by 2 for the length of the level equals a 5
on 12 roof pitch (or 5" drop to the foot). Now to figure the
correct chimney height. ??? roof pitch times 10 plus 24 equals
chimney height. Staying with the same 5 on 12 example. 5 times 10
equals 50 plus 24 equals 74 inches above the roof required.
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Q: I just bought a
house that has the exhaust from gas furnace and fireplace going
up the same flue. Can the fireplace and gas furnace be on the
same flue?
A:
Wood
smoke and gas fumes cannot run up the same flue according to both
the NFPA211 (National Fire Protection Association) and the SBCC
(Southern Building Code Congress). I believe other codes are also
the same. But, more than likely you have multiple flues in the
same chimney.
Q:
Would
you know if it's OK to also use wood in a gas burning fireplace?
Would the ashes from the burned wood get into the holes where gas
comes out and eventually cause damage?
A: No, to build a wood fire in
a fireplace designed for use only with gas would be a fire
hazard. If it is a wood burning fireplace with gas logs
installed, then it could be converted back. Look inside the unit
for a manufacturers name and model number. Until you know what
you have, do not build a wood fire in the fireplace.
Q: I want to install
a prefab chimney for a new wood stove. How long does a good
prefab chimney last?
A:
Prefab
chimneys do not have to be replaced if maintained properly. Clean your chimney regularly. The
DuraVent Line we carry is warranted for 25 years. Look here:
http://www.FireLogs.com/DuraVentChimney.htm.
Q:
Do
you recommend a fan blower in a circulating fireplace to force air from the bottom, around
the unit and out the top vents?
A:
A
blower is very easy to add if the firebox was wired when the unit
was installed. If you do not know, remove the bottom grill and
look for a plug (a normal wall outlet type but with only one
plug). If there, plug something in to be sure to is
"live". If you do not have it pre wired, I would not
suggest adding it. If heat is your prime objective, I would add a
set of vent free gas logs. They will put out 40,000 BTUs. That is
enough to heat up to 800 square feet here in Alabama.
Q: What do I measure
to choose which chimney cap I need and how does it attach to
flue? I have a double flue similar to the big cap picture shown
and cannot figure out how you remove cap for flue cleaning.
A: Since you have 2 flues, if there is 8" between them, you can use two caps. If not, a
cap like the "Big Top" should be used. If you can use
two, measure the outside of each clay flue liner. If the "Big
Top" is appropriate, measure the outside of both flue
liners. The individual caps are a friction fit (using spring
steel legs) and are removed by pulling straight up. If the clay
flue liner sticks up 2", the legs are not needed and the
screw tab on the corners of the cap work fine. If you go with the
"Big Top" the bottom of the cap is anchored to the
chimney with the hardware provided. To clean the top of the cap
only is removed. Caps can be viewed on this page: http://www.FireLogs.com/HyC.htm.
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Q:
We
have just discovered the hard way that our county building codes
prohibit propane fueled log lighters. Why is that?
A: Many places in the country
do allow them. The reason some areas do not is that all indoor
propane gas appliances are required to have a pilot light. You
cannot have a pilot light inside the firebox on a wood fire. So
it is a catch 22. I have concerns concerning L.P. (propane) gas
log lighters for wood fires. L.P. gas is heavier than air. If
ashes buildup over the lighter and you hold a match over the
ashes, it is possible for the L.P. gas to run out of the
fireplace and to the floor (much the same as a glass of water
would). By the time the L.P. gas fills the area to the height of
the match. A very dangerous situation could occur. Without the
ash covering the burner, the risk is greatly reduced.
Q: I noticed a
product made by Rutland that claims to clean your fireplace and
chimney of creosote when sprinkled on top of a fire. My
father-in-law says just throw salt on my fire to do the same
thing. Has anyone tried either? Do they work?
A: Salt does work, but is
corrosive to all metal parts like the damper and rain cap, or the
whole thing if prefab. Do not use salt. Rutland is a good
cleaner. But, it is no substitute for chimney cleaning. It's like
swishing tooth paste around in your mouth and not using a brush!! The
Rutland cleaner is at the bottom of this
page.
Q: How do I find out
what kind of pre-fab fireplace I have?
A: Look on the inside of the
firebox, normally on the right side above the side brick or metal
panel close to the front. Another place some manufacturers put it
is the top of the screen rail above the mesh screen. You are
looking for a metal plate about the size of a business card. It
will be pop riveted to the side of the firebox. It will have the
manufacturers name, model number, serial number, and UL approval
number. The UL approval number is of no use in finding out what
you have, it is a number that starts with a single letter
followed by 6 or 7 numbers.
Q: I'm a city girl
that just brought my 1st home which includes a beautiful
fireplace. The seller didn't use the fireplace for many years. I
know that I will have to have it inspected and cleaned before
using it but I don't even know how or what to do for the
fireplace. The fireplace has a glass door. How safe is it to burn
wood?
A: Get a certified chimney
sweep to come to your house and do an inspection. They will let
you know if your fireplace is safe to use with wood or gas. They
will let you know if there is anything not satisfactory or not to
code about your fireplace. Do not build a fire until you have it inspected. I was a chimney
sweep for six years (1980-1986). I saw many odd things with
fireplaces, especially unused ones. Get it checked out before
use.
Q:
A
question. My fireplace only smokes during startup. I feel cold
air coming down the flue.
A:
You
may simply need to get the flue warmed up before lighting the
fire. Take four pieces of newspaper. Lay them on
the floor offsetting the corners to make an 16 pointed
"star". Roll it up into a funnel shape. Tightly twist
the small end closed. This is your handle. Hold inside the
firebox and light a "star point". Hold big lit end down
for 3 to 5 seconds until fire in funnel gets going good. Turn and
point big, flaming end toward damper. You will be able to hear
the draft change directions. The air rushing out the chimney will
pull the flames creating a rushing, jet engine kind of sound. Be
careful not to get burned.
Q:
I
just found that there is no insulation in the walls around my
fireplace. From in the attic I can see all the way down to the
firebox. Is it safe to blow in insulation to fill around the
firebox and up the wall? Does it take a special kind due to the
heat? We have gas logs.
A: Most prefab fireplaces
cool the pipe by allowing air to go into the pipe right at the
top of the firebox. To block that would create a fire hazard even
with gas logs. Insulating the room side of the chase is a good
idea. Fiberglass bats should be used. I fire escape ladder will
give you easy access down to the firebox. The firebox is not real
stable on the top. You can put your weight on it if done on the
edges. Do not step on the top close to the pipe. This insulation
may not get within two inches of the pipe.
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Q: I need some
advice. My downstairs fireplace is practically unusable due to
smoking back into the room. I need help.
A: For starters. A few
questions to you so I may be better prepared to assist.
q: 1. Do you live on a lake
or bluff?
a: No, I'm near the bottom of
a hill, 2nd house up from the bottom. There are 4 houses up the
hill above me, so this hill is about 150 yards long.
conclusion: Answer does not contribute
to problem.
q: 2. How "air
tight" is your house, I.E.: storm windows and doors, extra
insulation, etc.?
a: House has storm windows
and doors, and we had attic insulation added about 5 years ago.
conclusion: Answer suggests house need
outside air source for fireplace.
q: 3. Do you have automatic
attic ventilation, I.E.: manual wind turbines, thermostat electric
turbines?
a: Yes, we have two manual
turbines mounted on the roof for attic vents.
conclusion: Answer contributes to
negative pressure problem.
q: 4. Was the difference in
inside and outside temperatures at least 25 degrees F.?
a: On this particular day,
no. The temp difference was maybe 15 degrees F., but it was damp,
I.E., humid outside.
conclusion:
You
need a 25 degree F. difference for good draft.
q: 5. Do you have an outside
air source for the fireplace?
a: No.
conclusion: An outside air kit will be
required for your fireplace to solve your problem.
q: 6. Does opening a window in
the same room help the smoking?
a: Yes, it seems to, we have
done that in the past. I've been surprised at the draw through
the crack in the window.
conclusion: Verifies outside air kit
is needed.
q: 7. Is the chimney two feet
above any point within ten feet of it?
a: Yes, approximately three
feet above the pitch of the roof.
conclusion:
Answer
does not contribute to problem.
q: 8. Is the square inches of
the fireplace opening less than ten times the flue outlet?
a: I haven't measured the flue
outlet on the roof yet, but I doubt it. The fireplace opening is
28" H X 30"W X 19" Deep. I believe the tile at the
top of the flue is approx. 12"X8".
conclusion: Flue may not be large
enough for fireplace. 28 x 30 = 840. The inside size of a 8 x 12
is 7 x 11. 7 x 11 = 77. 77 x 10 = 770 (the largest fireplace
should be). If opening lowered to 25.5 it should work. 25.5 x 30
= 765. Look at smoke guard on my site at: http://www.FireLogs.com/HyC.htm.
q: 9. Is your damper opening
all the way?
a: Yes, I always verify that
with a flashlight before I start a fire.
conclusion:
Answer
does not contribute to problem.
q: 10. Does it smoke when the
wind blows in one direction only?
a: I'm sorry, this I don't
know. I need to become more sophisticated in my observations when
it happens. I need to devise a wind sock & watch it.
conclusion: Based on other answers,
not needed.
CONCLUSION:
Bottom
line. Add outside air to the fireplace and lower opening
2-1/2".
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Q: I have a smoking
fireplace. Can I install glass doors to solve the problem?
A: No, you
must correct your fireplace problem, then install glass doors if
you so desire.
Q: We have a
fireplace on the ground level and one below ground level. My
problem is that most of the time some smoke comes in though
fireplace below ground when I use the one on the ground floor.
A: You have a house that is
well insulated (i.e.: extra insulation, storm windows &
doors, etc.). Your fireplace uses room air to carry the smoke
out. It uses approximately 300 CFM (cubic feet per minute). This
air has to come from somewhere. The point of least resistance at
this time is the other fireplace. Open a window in the room,
where the fire is, about 1-2 inches. This should solve your
problem. If opening a window is not practical, then you must add
an outside air kit on the fireplace. The only other explanation
is a hole between the two fireplaces, this is not normally the
case and it a lot harder to fix.
Q: My fireplace
smokes. There is no blockage. The chimney is higher than the
ridge line on my roof. I called my builder; he said open a window
a smidgen. I did, it worked, but if I build a fire for warmth and
have to open a window for suction, what's the point?
A:
Your
house is starved for air. Your solution is to get outside air to
the fireplace.
Q: I have the same
question but, I have an older house which is not air tight, and
opening a window does not help the smoke situation. Any ideas?
A: I don't feel you have the
same problem even though you have the same symptoms. A smoking
fireplace. The flue should be 1/10 the fireplace opening (firebox
width times firebox height divided by 10 should be a less than
the size of the flue liner width times height). If you are out of
spec. Lower the opening of the firebox. This is how to test. Cut
tin foil 5" wider than the firebox opening. Fold aluminum
foil lengthwise in 1" increments. Tape it over the firebox
opening. Build a fire. Continue to unroll the aluminum foil an
inch at a time until the smoking problem its cured. If less than 8", I have a spring loaded product called a smoke guard that
will solve your problem. It is available is 4", 6", and 8"
heights and fits fireplaces from 28" to 48" wide. It can be seen on this page: http://www.FireLogs.com/HyC.htm.
The fireplace exhaust should not be near any trees. Trim as
necessary. The height of the chimney should be 2 feet above any
point within 10 feet. This means if you are within 10 feet of the
ridge, you must be 2 feet above it. The firebox could be built
wrong. Consult a local chimney sweep.
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Q: My chimney is
leaking water from the roof. I cannot find where it is coming in
from.
A: First,
get a tarp. Wrap the entire top of the chimney. Take garden hose
to the roof. Need two people. One waters the chimney one section
at a time at the roof level around the flashing (part you left
uncovered). The second person goes into the attic or room,
wherever you are seeing the water. Shorten up on the tarp and
continue to wet from bottom to top until leak is found. Another
way, if water can get in, air can get out, remove cap, seal top
of flue outlet with damp blanket, open damper (Very important),
seal front of fireplace with clear polyethylene all but one lower
corner. Get fireworks type smoke bomb. light roll into firebox
through corner left open, tape down corner, Your chimney is now
full of smoke. Now look for holes in chimney where smoke is
coming out and patch.
Q:
A chimney sweep recommended "sealing" the chimney.
Anyone know whether this is a good idea for me to have done, or
just a good idea for the sweep to do?
A: If you decide to seal your
chimney, make sure the proper product is used. There are two
major brands on the market "Chimney Shield" by Rutland
which I carry and "Chimney Saver" by Homesaver. Both
these products allow one way pass through. In other words, water
can not get into the chimney, but any water inside and cross the
barrier to the outside. Most chimney sweeps offer a ten year
warranty in this. It is more important as you go north. If water
gets inside the chimney bricks and mortar joints, it causes
spalling. This is where the freezing/thawing action breaks off
the front 1/4" to 1/2" of the brick.
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Fireplaces - Cold Air Infiltration
Q:
My
new home has a Heatilator fireplace in a two story exterior
chase off of a family room with a cathedral ceiling. When it is
cool outside, I feel a draft coming from the bottom vents on the
fireplace. This draft occurs even when the damper to the flue is
closed, the damper to fresh air kit is closed, the glass doors
are closed and there is no breeze outside. The draft is
significant enough on cold days to lower the temperature for
several feet around the fireplace by a few degrees. The builder
tells me that the chase is insulated with a fire stop at the roof
line. Could the cold air be coming in from the outer flue? If so,
should I have a chimney air kit to be installed to let this cold
air out? What else should I check?
A: You
may have an outside air kit not sealing. Look outside the chase
for a thing that looks like a dryer vent. Seal it up temporarily
to see if it solves it, if so look into why the outside air
damper is not sealing. Second, and more likely, the builder did
not insulate the three outside walls of the chase. If he sealed
the front (behind the profile), that will hold the cold inside
the chase, but many builder model fireboxes are themselves not
insulated. So, no insulation on back wall of chase, cold goes
into chase and through the sheet metal fireplace and out the
vents. This is the most likely problem. The solution is to remove
the chase cap and firestop and insulate the back wall and two
side walls of the chase to the firestop.
Q: I have a very
drafty fireplace and would like to do a better job of sealing it
from the outside when it's not in use.
A: A top
sealing fireplace damper is the solution to your problem. They
are inexpensive and will save you $100.00 per year on utility
bills.
Q:
The
chase our fireplace is in is not insulated. Hence, the fireplace
is a great source of cold air infiltration. What can I do?
A:
Silicone
between the firebox and the profile (brick, marble, etc.). The
pipes cool by hot air exiting out the roof between the walls of
the pipe. Cold air enters the chase from the rain cap area and
falls to the bottom of the chase. The process continues in this
fashion. For this reason, the chase is the same temperature as
the outside or just a little warmer. The chase can be insulated,
but do not put insulation in the chase in a fashion that will
block the cooling of the firebox.
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Q: I recently bought
a house with a masonry fireplace. On the floor of the fireplace
is an ash dump. Can it also be used as an air vent to improve the
fireplace draft?
A:
Yes
it can be used for that purpose. A couple of things to remember
though. Install a mesh screen over the clean out door (the one on
the outside of the house). Otherwise critters have an easy access
into your home. Close both doors when fireplace is not in use to
keep the cold air outside. Also you can adjust the flap on the
ash dump (the door in the bottom of the firebox) to regulate the
amount of air you let in.
Q: I have a close to
air tight house, Do I need air for the fireplace? I have glass
doors on the fireplace now. What do I need to do to make maximum
use of heat out of a fire?
A: Newer homes are built with
extreme energy conservation in mind. They put extra insulation in
the attic and walls, use double or triple pane windows, etc. For
this reason the "newer" houses don't breathe that well.
A fireplace takes air out of the house and sends it the outside
along with the bi-products of combustion (smoke). If the house
does not have sufficient air leaks, the fireplace would smoke
back into the room. Using "outside air" kits allows the
fireplace to use air from the outside rather than the air you
have already heated. Now, as far as what you can do. You already
have a glass door. It lowers the amount of air needed. Adding an
outside air kit to the fireplace will make the rest of the house
warmer. The fireplace is going to use air from the easiest
source. It is easier to get the air from the outside air kit than
to suck it from around windows and doors. The sucking from
windows and doors is what makes the other side of the room (away
from the fireplace) colder than other areas of the house.
Q: Where
can I purchase an outside air kit?
A:
If a prefab fireplace, you will need to obtain one from the manufacturer.
If you have a masonry fireplace, most brick yards that sell firebrick and flue
liners carry them. Many Certified Chimney Sweeps offer them including
installation.
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Q: I have a fireplace
without glass doors. It currently has a screen in front that is
not attached to the fireplace. It is a free standing screen. I
would be looking for a door/screen kit to mount onto the
fireplace. Any ideas or manufactures that sell them.
A: I sell
the Portland line of glass doors. You need to know if you have a
prefab or masonry fireplace. Different doors go on the prefabs
due to the way they cool. A masonry door on a prefab fireplace
can be a fire hazard.
Q:
Are
you ever supposed to close the glass doors while a fire is
burning? How does this effect general heating?
A:
Never
close the glass doors on a "loud roaring fire". Closing
the doors lowers the radiant heat of the fireplace. Therefore the
fire will not seem as hot right at the hearth. However, the other
side of the room should feel warmer due to the air not crossing
the room to go out the chimney.
Q: Do glass doors make
the fireplace produce additional heat?
A: No. A
glass door will keep the opposite side of the room
warmer because the doors slow down the air being sent out the
chimney. Glass door make the fireplace "feel" cooler
right next to it because the glass blocks some of the radiant
heat. A glass doors main "plus" is safety. You can
leave the room or go to bed before the fire is completely out
without the fear of a spark popping out into the room. So, only
buy the door if safety is your main issue, not additional heat.
Q:
We're
considering installing glass doors on our fireplace to stop the
cold drafts that develop whenever we have a fire going. It seems
like a fairly simple task. Any thoughts or suggestions would be
appreciated.
A: Fireplace glass doors
usually install with just a screwdriver and pliers or adjustable
wrench. Unless you have a very rough rock fireplace, it is an easy do it yourself project.
Q:
How
do you reach the inside of the glass doors for cleaning, since
they fold together when open?
A:
At
the hinge at both top and bottom is a piece of spring steel.
Place your finger on the bottom piece of spring steel (you will
have to reach around to the inside of the "V" the doors
make). Hold this piece down while raising up on the door and
sliding the bottom toward the center and remove the doors from
the frame.
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Q:
My
air-tight wood stove glass gets all covered in soot. It gets so
bad that I can't see the flame! Is there any way to have a fire
without soiling the window?
A: Some older wood stoves had
very poor, if any, air wash for the glass. Newer wood stove glass
stays mostly clean. Here are a few tips. Build a hot fire, not
the overnight smoldering fire. Add more air to your fire. Keep
wood close to the glass. If possible stack wood front to back
rather than side to side for better air flow. Clean glass
frequently. The easiest way to clean the glass is (with stove
cold) use a damp rag dipped into the ashes and wipe the glass.
Q: Do the glass doors
on my fireplace have to be closed when the outside air kit is
open, or can they be left open like a more traditional fireplace?
A: Almost everyone leaves the
glass doors open during use, and with the outside air kit open.
The draft of the fireplace will assure none of the cold air from
the intake will get out into the room. But, it must be closed
when a there is no fire or cold air will spill into the room.
This is due to there not being a lot of draft to pull it out of
the chimney.
Q: What can I use to
clean the glass & brass doors in front of my fireplace?
A: The glass can easily be
cleaned when cold by dampening a rag or good paper towel and
dipping it into the ashes from the fireplace. Clean the glass.
Rinse with water. You must be careful when cleaning the brass.
Most good quality glass doors have a lacquer coating over the
brass so it does not require polishing. To polish with metal
polish would ruin the door. A soap - water solution it all that
is recommended.
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Q: I have a wood
stove with a prefab chimney that runs straight up, (no
bends). My brothers have run regular stove pipe (single
wall) straight through to the top leaving a 1" gap all
around. My question is: How safe is this? I've heard that pre fab chimneys rust out after a few years.
A: Your brother has
run single wall stove pipe out of his house. He is in for a house
fire. The pipe requires 18" clearance to wood and can be
used indoors only. Warn him before disaster strikes. Prefab chimneys do not have a problem with rusting out.
The brand we carry, DuraVent has a 25 year warranty. Look on this page: http://www.FireLogs.com/DuraVentChimney.htm.
Q: The house we're
planning to build will have an unfinished, unheated walk-out
basement. My husband would like to have the option of installing
a small wood stove in the future to make the space more
comfortable during our short heating season (east-central
Alabama). Is it possible to vent such a stove (safely) by running
the vent pipe through a hole in the brick wall? The house will be
brick veneer and will have a wood-burning fireplace on the main
floor. The guy drawing our plans says venting the stove through a
separate flue in the fireplace chimney is easy, but he'll have to
make the chimney 2 feet wider to accommodate the stove flue (it's
already 6 feet wide).
A:
Yes.
A chimney (metal class "A" or brick) is required. You
cannot run single wall stove pipe on the outside of your house.
The wood stove flue, if 6" inside diameter is 10"
outside diameter. If a larger stove that requires 8" inside
diameter, the outside diameter would be 12". Adding two feet
is not necessary. The pipe only requires 2" clearance to
combustibles. Since one side would be the fireplace box (non
combustible). Then only 12" would be needed if 6" or
14" if 8". Be sure to follow the wood stove and chimney
manufacturers instructions.
Q: I am interested in
installing the DuraVent through-the-wall kit for a wood stove
on my two story home. Since I have to run the chimney on the
outside of the house will there be a problem with the chimney
getting too cold and thereby not drafting properly? Does a DuraVent chimney need to be enclosed and insulated for the
wood stove to work properly?
A: The DuraVent chimney is
designed to be installed on the outside of a house without a
chase. In other words, it does not need to be enclosed or
insulated.
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Q: Is a vent free
heater safe to use in a garage?
A: Yes. They
have an ODS (oxygen depletion sensor) included which shuts the
heater off if the oxygen drops below a safe level. However, flammables
should not be used or stored around gas appliances.
Q:
What
are the pros and cons of radiant verses blue flame vent free gas
heaters?
A: Plaque (radiant) heater
heats like the sun, it heats objects in the room. Better if area
is poorly insulated like a garage. Blue flame heats the air in
the room, A good room heater when used with a thermostat.
Q:
Are
vent free gas heaters allowed in all areas.
A: No. Some
states like California do not allow them. Check with your local
building code official for the codes in your area.
Q: I rent an
apartment in northern New Jersey. Last week, my landlady
installed an "unvented gas heater" to my unit and I'm
wondering if this thing is safe. The instruction manual says that
the heater is not to be used in bedrooms, automobiles, trailers,
RVs or mobile homes, with some exceptions. I used the heater for only a few days and
stopped using it because of fear of CO exposure. The blue flame
which lights the heater is designed to automatically turn off
when there isn't enough oxygen. I've had a person from the Fire
Department take a look at the heater and, surprisingly, he says
that heaters like this are legal and frequently found in
newly-constructed apartments and condos. Is this really the case?
Should any apartment tenant accept this kind of heater from their
landlords? My landlord removed an old, dilapidated vented gas
heater from my unit to install this heater.
A:
It
comes standard with an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Device). There has
not been a single documented fatality from a gas heater with an
ODS due to ODS failure. The ODS has been used in Europe since the
1960's. They are not and should not be used in "sleeping
quarters". The unit you have has a higher BTU output than
what is allowed in bedrooms. Vent free heaters are not allowed as
"primary" heating units. They are for supplemental heating
only. They are great for cool
areas and emergency heat. You rented your apartment with a vented
gas heater. I suggest you ask your "landlady" to
replace it with a equivalent vented heater as was the case when
you rented the unit.
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Q:
I
have a fireplace insert. The doors came with a fireproof
rope-type insulating seal. the rope is coming loose. What kind of
glue should I use.
A: You should use a gasket
cement made especially for this purpose. Rutland part number 77E
is one of the best.
Q: We have painted
our wood stove with some "stove paint" to make it look
nice again, and now when it gets above 200 degrees a terrible
chemical smell emanates from it. I have had about 8 fires in this
stove getting up to about 500 degrees, and the smell hasn't
ceased.
A: The paint will continue to
"cure" as you reach higher temperatures on your stove.
I recommend this. Clean your chimney before building larger fires
if it has not been done recently. Open windows (nice day I
hope!). Build hot fire. Cure the paint. The paint can go to a
temperature of 1200 degrees.
Q: During a new home
inspection, the inspector told me that fireplaces are not made to
handle the heat an insert produces and that it damages your
fireplace. Is this true?
A:
If
your fireplace is masonry (bricks), then your insert should work
in it just fine as is. If your fireplace is pre-fab (metal), then
your fireplace insert may not be safe. Look on the inside of the
firebox (usually on the side above the side brick and close to
the front) for the fireplace manufacturer and serial number. Then
call the manufacturer of the fireplace insert and see if it is
approved in your model of fireplace.
Q: I have a fireplace
insert in my fireplace. The problem is that even with the flue
closed, the insert still allows some drafts to come through in
various places, making the room cold. Any suggestions on how to
avoid these drafts?
A: To find the place(s) of
cold air infiltration. Build a fire and take a cigarette or similar smoke
producing object and hold it between fireplace insert and
surround and between the surround and fireplace profile. Be sure
to check under the stove. Seal all found leaks. Other problems
these leaks cause: Hard to start a fire, low heat output, fire
sometimes goes out, glass never stays clean.
Q: My question is:
What do I use to "seal all found leaks"? Is there a
preferred compound for this purpose?
A: Most leaks are small. If
holes, use fiberglass insulation (bat type, no paper backing). If
you have a gap running under the stove, fiberglass gasket
material like what is used to seal the doors is easier to work
with. Just continue until there is no smoke drawn in with the
unit in operation. This better seal will, make unit produce more
heat, make the glass stay cleaner, make the fire easier to start.
You will be pleasantly surprised at you results of sealing your
unit off. Note: RTV (high temp) silicone can also be used.
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Q: I plan to have on
the first floor a small airtight wood stove and in the basement a
larger non-airtight unit in the same chimney. Is this possible?
A: Two chimneys would be
needed. They can run up the same brickwork, but must have two
different flues (holes).
Q:
I
want to install a wood stove as close to a wall as possible.
Where do I find information as to how I should modify the wall to
do this? And what sources of heat shield materials would you
recommend?
A: Check the installation
manual of the stove you wish to install. The minimum clearances
are different for each stove and depends on the safety testing.
You can usually lower the clearances usually by adding a stove board to
your wall.
Q: I have a prefab
fireplace in the living room. I want to remove it, open up an
alcove into the chase where it was and put in a freestanding wood
stove. Space will be tight but sufficient. What can I use to
"fireproof" the walls and ceiling of the chase? I do
not suspect heavy drywall is enough. Most brick would physically
be too bulky and esthetically would overwhelm the room.
A: You are correct, drywall
will not do. Look into Wonder Board by Durock. It is normally
used behind ceramic tile in bathrooms, but has UL approval for
use to reduce clearances behind wood stoves. Be sure to follow
the stove manufacturers instructions regarding alcoves. If not
open all the way to the ceiling, ventilation in the upper area
will probably be needed to keep the temperatures down. If the
stove manufacturer does not address alcoves, either pick another
or contact their technical support for addendum instructions. Do
not do this without proper precautions against a house fire.
Q:
Does
anyone know the specs on how far from the wall, etc. for
free-standing wood stoves?
A:
The
code for an unlisted wood stove is 36" to the sides and rear
of the stove. Almost every stove manufactured today has less
clearances, some down to 3". This would depend on the
testing lab results and is required to be on a metal plate
attached to the stove, usually on the rear. Your choice of stove will determine the clearances needed.
Q: On our first floor
is a large stone fireplace that has been sealed up, and a free
standing stove installed. The previous owner used this as his
primary heat source. Our problem relates to "draft
control". The chimney produces a very strong draft, and even
with the stove closed up as much as possible, we are unable to
regulate the fire. Any suggestions?
A: Check the gasket seal on
the doors. To do this, insert a dollar bill halfway in the door,
close the door, pull out the bill. There should be a fair amount
of resistance. Go around all sides (including the hinge side) of
the doors checking this, replace the gasket if the bill does not
have resistance.
Q: I'm looking at
putting a wood-burning insert in my fireplace, and my local code
requires a stainless liner. My problem is the damper plate
assembly between the fireplace and the flue. Is there a simple
way of removing this without having to demolish the whole
fireplace in the process?
A: IMO, this is not a good
do-it-yourself job. With that said, the top course or two of
brick need to be removed from the back wall of the firebox and
back side of the damper will need to be removed in order to make
room for the liner. The "trick" to it is an automotive
bumper jack. Remove the brick as needed using a chisel leaving
the damper above. Put jack under damper in rear center. As it is
cast iron, it will break rather than bend. Now repair any damage
caused by this process. Now the liner will have a hole to go
through. I close by stating that I think you should have a
certified chimney sweep do the installation.
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